Photographing the Qutb Shahi Tombs: A Photographer's Guide to Hyderabad's Royal Necropolis

Quick Facts

• Location: Ibrahim Bagh, near Golconda Fort, Hyderabad

• UNESCO status: On the Tentative List of World Heritage Sites (alongside Charminar and Golconda)

• Number of tombs: Approximately 30, spanning the 130-year period from 1543 to 1672

• Restoration: Aga Khan Trust for Culture, ongoing since 2013

• Best time to visit: Early morning for soft light on the tile work; late afternoon for warm light on the domes

• Time needed: Half a day for photography; allow longer if you want to explore interiors and inscriptions

• Combine with: Golconda Fort (15 minutes away) for a full day of heritage photography

  
  

The Royal Necropolis: 30 Tombs, 130 Years

If you had been following my past few blog entries, this is the third and final article of my series on Architectural Photography from Hyderabad. The previous two articles covered Charminar and Golconda, here I cover the third site from Hyderabad that is on the tentative list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites - the Qutb Shahi Tombs.

As submitted to UNESCO, the tombs of Qutb Shahis are a mausoleum complex, a royal necropolis which comprises the 30 tombs of the Royal family (the rulers of the Qutb Shahi Dynasty, their queens and children) and the officials who faithfully served them, a mortuary bath and some mosques.

The complex contains the epigraphically documented tombs of five of the dynasty's seven sultans, as well as those of another four members of the royal family, spanning the 130-year period from 1543 to 1672.

The Aga Khan Trust for Culture, under a Memorandum of Understanding with the Government, has undertaken the restoration of the site in 2013.

This is my second visit to the site over the past two years. But this time, I had the privilege of having the very knowledgeable @navinsigamany as my guide. At some later time, I will probably compare and contrast the impact of the restoration work that has been going on since 2013, based on the images I captured during my visits.

Mohammed Quli Qutb Shah's tomb

While it is quite daunting to capture most, if not all, details of the mammoth complex, I will attempt to cover some aspects.

The Tomb of Mohammed Quli Qutb Shah

First and foremost is the massive tomb of Mohammed Quli Qutb Shah which will undoubtedly leave a mark on you because of its sheer scale and workmanship compared to the other tombs.

Geometry and Design — Jamsheed's Octagonal Tomb

In addition to size and scale, you will also notice that there is an emphatic play of geometry and design, as is evident from Jamsheed's tomb, below, which is Octagonal.

Jamsheed's octagonal tomb

Smaller But Intricate — Sultan and Subhan's Tombs

A closer look of Sultan and Subhan's tombs, below, reveal intricate designs even though the tomb themselves are smaller in size compared to the others.

Tombs of Sultan and Subhan

The Lost Tile Work of Ibrahim's Tomb

Another aspect that impressed me was the intermix of architectural styles as can be seen at Ibrahim's tomb. The tomb has intricate and colorful tile work (see the very first image above) which seems to have been lost over time (not sure if weather was the culprit or if it was vandalism). The pillars also show traditional Indian style.

Ibrahim's tomb showing remnants of original tile work and Indian-style pillars

You can see some tile work (in green and blue) restored on the tomb below as well.

Restored green and blue tile work at a Qutb Shahi tomb

Interior Architecture and Inscriptions

Below is the inside of one of the tombs where you can see that much care went into the design and architecture of the interiors as well, where the dead are laid to rest. Particularly impressive are the arches, the placement of the doors and windows to bring in just enough light, and the elaborate inscriptions.

Interior of a Qutb Shahi tomb showing arches, doors, and inscriptions, Hyderabad

The Unfinished Tomb of Mirza Nizamuddin Ahmed

Interior of a Qutb Shahi Tomb

And finally, what you would not miss is the sheer neglect that this complex has endured over time. This is clearly evident at the unfinished tomb of Mirza Nizamuddin Ahmed which is actually located at the beginning of the complex but I deliberately wanted to cover towards the end.

I captured the interior (see image to the right) and exterior (see image below) of the tomb so you can see the impact of vandalism and forces of nature that this historic entity has gone through.

The unfinished structure probably provides insights into the technological innovations from that period of time but it does not seem to be part of the restoration project that the other tombs are part of and hence we might lose this structure and its history if we do not take appropriate action. That is very unfortunate.

The unfinished tomb of Mirza Nizamuddin Ahmed

As you can see above, the unfinished tomb of Nizamuddin Ahmed is depressing as was the time I took the picture at the beginning of my walk that day with Navin Sigamany of http://www.thwc.in. The clouds opened up and the light was gorgeous later on due to which I was able to capture the above pictures to my heart's content.

Photography Tips for the Qutb Shahi Tombs

 

• Go on a partly cloudy day if you can. Hard midday sun on the limestone is unforgiving. Soft overcast diffuses the light and brings out detail in the tile work and inscriptions.

• Use a wide angle for the courtyards and domes. A 16–35mm or 24mm prime is ideal for capturing the scale of the larger tombs and the relationship between adjacent structures.

• Use a longer lens for the tile work. A 70–200mm or 100mm macro lets you isolate the restored tile sections — particularly on Ibrahim's tomb and the green-and-blue tile work — without distorting them.

• Don't miss the interiors. The doors and windows on the larger tombs were placed specifically to control light. Step inside and look up — the play of light on the arches and inscriptions is often the strongest composition of the visit.

• Photograph the contrasts. The restored tombs alongside the unfinished and neglected ones tell the story of this site better than any single image. Look for pairs and pairings.

• Allow time for the unfinished tomb of Mirza Nizamuddin Ahmed. It's at the beginning of the complex but worth circling back to at the end of your visit — the light on the unfinished walls changes character through the day.

• Hire a guide if you can. I worked with Navin Sigamany of the Hyderabad Walking Company — the historical and architectural context they provide changes how you see and photograph each tomb.

  
  

I hope you enjoyed reading through these three series posts. Would welcome your feedback and comments, including any factual errors I might have made as an oversight.

More travel and architectural work here.

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